A wine by any other name

(Rene Asmussen via Pexels)

Elsie Lange

Last week, wine producers made their way to Canberra to brief parliamentarians on why Australian wineries shouldn’t be banned from using the grape variety name ‘prosecco’.

As part of a campaign led by Australian Grape and Wine (AGW), the producers were challenging a push from the European Union for Australian grown prosecco to be named ‘glera’ or labelled ‘Australian prosecco’, as part of a broader free trade agreement between the countries.

With a decision to be made imminently, AGW chief executive Lee McLean said the European Union’s approach to the issue was motivated by a desire to protect Italian producers from competition, and “nothing more”.

Prosecco is a sparkling white wine, originating from the Valdobbiadene region in Veneto, Italy. It’s made from prosecco, or glera grapes. According to AGW, the value of Australian prosecco is about $200 million per annum.

AGW said prosecco had been “a shining light” in the country’s wine sector as it faced ongoing trading challenges.

“These producers are here [in Canberra] to make sure our politicians understand that decisions relating to prosecco have significant consequences for businesses, regional communities and ultimately people,” Mr McLean said.

“Prosecco isn’t just a bargaining chip for our negotiators.”

Adam Paleg is a winemaker at Mount Macedon’s Mount Towrong Vineyard, where they produce prosecco – he said the name was a powerful marketing tool with a strong following.

“Hypothetically if we did have to change the name to glera or something else, there is a big unknown about the effect it would have on the sales of Australian prosecco,” he said.

Mr McLean said prosecco was a grape variety name, just like Chardonnay or Cabernet Sauvignon, and should be treated that way.

“If we don’t back our producers now, there is a real risk other varieties like Vermentino, Fiano, Nero d’Avola and Montepulciano will be next in the firing line,” he said.