By Ewen McRae
Blues, barbecue, and bars.
No trip to America (in my view) would be complete without a stop or two in the south to experience all of these things, and the variety on offer as you cross each state line or shift from each city is an experience worth adding to your bucket list.
As a part of the country with so much to offer I’m surprised more Australians don’t visit there, the South is perfectly suited to a road trip through some major cities and immersing yourself in the food and music.
A good idea would be to start in Nashville, Tennessee, hire a car and make your way westwards.
Nashville itself has a huge amount to offer, and not just that they play both kinds of music; country and western.
I would recommend finding accommodation within walking distance of Broadway (the main restaurant and bar area in town), and from there you’re well placed to get out and explore.
Near the top of the list for any trip to Nashville has to be the famous Ryman Auditorium, better known as the home of the Grand Ole Opry, and worth a tour even if you can’t see a show there.
Near the Ryman is the Country Music Hall of Fame, which I enjoyed even though I’m far from a connoisseur, and if you still need a country music fix head to the Johnny Cash Museum for a closer look at the man in black.
A night out in Nashville is best down along Broadway, where live music is king and the whole city comes for a good time every night.
Every bar will have its own spin on live music, but for a more authentic country experience I’d recommend Robert’s Western World for a genuine honky tonk hoe down.
For food, there’s any number of good barbecue joints where you can get your fill of succulent ribs or mouth-watering brisket. I loved Peg Leg Porker, but follow your nose and you’re sure to find something to salivate over.
And if you want some of Tennessee’s famous whiskey go to Corsair Artisan Distillery for a tour and tasting session with a difference.
Moving on from Nashville, a three-hour drive west will find you in Memphis; the home of blues and the birthplace of rock and roll.
A good starting point to get an overview of the town’s music legacy is to go straight to Sun Studio and do the tour there. Music luminaries such as Jerry Lee Lewis, B.B. King and Johnny Cash all recorded some of their breakthrough hits here, and it is also where Elvis Presley got his start and shot to worldwide fame.
Once you’ve had a musical grounding you’re ready to head out to Graceland itself, for a very thorough look at the home of Elvis, as well as thousands of historical artifacts, gold records, cars, jumpsuits and guitars used by the king of rock and roll.
Continuing the music theme, no trip to Memphis would be complete without a visit to iconic Beale Street to sample the blues.
Much like Nashville, every bar will have live music on all night, and whether you’re looking for some chilled out blues, up tempo rock or dancing rockabilly you’ll have plenty of options. Pro tip: The Blues Hall has the most authentic blues band experience.
Don’t forget to have some cash on hand to tip the bands, they play for free and rely on tips from the audience.
While Memphis is a musical mecca, it’s also a significant city in the civil rights movement in America, and the National Civil Rights Museum is well worth checking out.
The museum is next to the motel where Dr Martin Luther King jnr was assassinated in 1968, and covers 300 years of struggle for African Americans from slavery until today. It’s a no holds barred look at a bleak part of American history.
If music and food are as big a part of your travel experience as they are for me, I’d recommend adding Austin to your itinerary.
Known as the music capital of the world, and with the famous South By Southwest festival lighting up the town every year, it’s a diverse and thriving city with a wide gamut of options.
Much like Nashville and Memphis, there is a concentration of music venues and bars on 6th Street, and for more of a local flavour head along Red River Street and catch a gig there.
You can’t visit Texas and not sample the barbecue on offer, and if you have the chance to go to Franklin Barbecue you will not be disappointed. Be warned, people camp out from 5am daily to sample this place, so be prepared for a bit of a wait in line, but trust me it’s worth it.
This is just a taste of the south, and there’s so much more to explore, but you have to save something for the return journey.
